Batteries

These things make no sense. I mean, I understand a few of the different types, but the adjectives make little to no real world sense to me. "AGM", "gel", "cold cranking", "deep cycle"... there's very little real information I can obtain from this.

So here's the deal - I have two batteries on my boat. Both are marine batteries, sealed, constructed similar to a car battery except (I assume) made to better withstand vibration.

One runs the radio, lights, livewell aerator, depth finder, engine lift, and engine starter. The other is just for the trolling motor (an electric motor used to run quietly at less than idle speed to "tow" bait through the water). The "boat" battery is car sized and claims to have "1,000 marine cranking amps". That's all it says. The bigger "trolling" battery says it has "825 marine cranking amps and 125 hours at a 1 amp draw". Both of these statements may as well be Chinese hieroglyphics.

When used as the trolling battery, both perform the same. They start out where the "2" on the trolling motor setting is plenty good enough, after about 3 or 4 hours I have to bump up to a "3", and a few hours after than must go to a "4". The "5" setting is mostly for repositioning, almost like an overdrive, and as such is way too fast to use for fishing even with a drained battery.

These batteries are both different in size as well as stated performance, yet I couldn't tell which one was hooked up without looking. Their performance is identical.

My question is how to read a battery so I may make an informed purchase in the future. My trolling motor is one of the smaller ones, putting out 50lbs of thrust, so a battery that gives out a lot of power doesn't seem to be a requirement. What I want is a battery that goes farther. These batteries start their fall off at 3-4hrs, which is the bare minimum I go fishing. Most trips are pushing 8 hrs, and when they involve back to back or several days in a row, I then have to bring a charger and find an outlet (I need holes! /Seinfeld). I just want a battery with some legs.

What adjective should I be looking for on a battery label?

The thing is, the performance may seem the same but the long term effect using the wrong battery probably is affecting its lifespan. Or the opposite effect, is paying extra for "cranking" amps when your application doesn't need it.

I don't know what label you look for in a "trolling" battery, but longer use is likely to be the more expensive one.
: ). Or buy a spare.

Quote: rxwine

The thing is, the performance may seem the same but the long term effect using the wrong battery probably is affecting its lifespan. Or the opposite effect, is paying extra for "cranking" amps when your application doesn't need it.

It's not a "wrong" battery, these battery/motor combination are correct. But your second part, the "waste on cranking amps", is part of what I was wondering. Thing is, I'm clueless on batteries. I always see them boasting their cranking amps, but never see them boasting their legs. I don't even know if "more crank" necessarily means "less legs".

Quote: rxwine

I don't know what label you look for in a "trolling" battery, but longer use is likely to be the more expensive one.
: ). Or buy a spare.

LOL! The big one is my spare, and it was expensive! I used to just use one battery for everything, but once the motor begins to drain it, the radio starts to go static or quits working all together. Plus, I always had to tote my jump box with me because, duh, the battery would be dead. I got a big ass, expensive battery for just this reason, only to find there was no difference lol.

Quote: Face

One runs the radio, lights, livewell aerator, depth finder, engine lift, and engine starter. The other is just for the trolling motor (an electric motor used to run quietly at less than idle speed to "tow" bait through the water). The "boat" battery is car sized and claims to have "1,000 marine cranking amps". That's all it says. The bigger "trolling" battery says it has "825 marine cranking amps and 125 hours at a 1 amp draw". Both of these statements may as well be Chinese hieroglyphics.

Both "Marine Cranking Amps" and "Cold Cranking Amps" are a measure of start up power over 30 seconds at cold temperature. They only differ by 30%
750 CCA x 1.3 = 975 MCA

The radio, lights, livewell aerator, depth finder, engine lift, and engine starter only put a stress on the battery when you start up which is why they only have an MCA rating. As both 825 and 1000 are very high ratings, I doubt that you could produce a scenario where there is different performance. You would have to put them under extreme stress (like starting up in an ice storm). The rating is very high for a marine battery, so you should never have a problem.

Your "trolling" battery is not just under stress when you start up, but also have enough reserve capacity to operate over the long haul. The technical definition of amp-hours won't be much help, but there may be a practical guide out there. I suspect you would only have problems if you fish in the extreme cold for very long duration. An average small house is probably using about 12 Amps of electricity per hour. But I don't know enough about "trolling" equipment to know how much electricity you are drawing at different temperatures and under different loads.




Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use.

Quote: Pacomartin

Both "Marine Cranking Amps" and "Cold Cranking Amps" are a measure of start up power over 30 seconds at cold temperature. They only differ by 30%

Figured as much. Kind of a northern Manitoba stat, not really applicable for WNY, and especially when it only gets used from May to Sept ;)

Quote: Pacomartin

The radio, lights, livewell aerator, depth finder, engine lift, and engine starter only put a stress on the battery when you start up which is why they only have an MCA rating. As both 825 and 1000 are very high ratings, I doubt that you could produce a scenario where there is different performance. You would have to put them under extreme stress (like starting up in an ice storm). The rating is very high for a marine battery, so you should never have a problem.

This stuff certainly doesn't cause an issue. Since I've switched to having a "pure trolling" battery, all this stuff goes on one battery and lasts the entire year with no charging. I only ran into issues using these things when I had all this and the troll on one battery.

Quote: Pacomartin

But I don't know enough about "trolling" equipment to know how much electricity you are drawing at different temperatures and under different loads.

Me neither. I couldn't even find anything whatsoever on the electric motor specs for these things. I can tell you the thrust, and I can tell you it says it'll last 10 hours, and that's about it for info =/ And it will last about 10 hours, but those last 2-4 hours suck lol.

Quote: Pacomartin

Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use.

I'm not sure if this "increase in quality" would do me any good. My battery is only used when temps are above 60*F. Every winter it is stored inside. It never sits "decharged". The terminals, even the battery cover itself, are completely clean. After every use it is recharged using an automated charger that can't overcharge it.

I'm pretty sure this is just a case of "all batteries are garbage" and there's nothing I can do about it. Just figured I'd give it a shot =/

A question about car battery
Should a car battery drain after a few days of not using?
My car battery in only a year old
I only drive my car about twice a week because I work at home
Seems like my battery is losing its charge over several days of not using my car
I will turn my ignition and just a click, turn again and click again, turn again and it starts
If I drive some where , turn car off, come back and it starts right away. No clicks, no hesitation, start right up
So I have to figure my alternator is fine charging up the battery since the car starts fine after a drive/stop/turn off/turn back on
I took a look at the water level in my battery. Seemed a bit low so bought distilled water and filled to the bottom of the 6 cylinder holes.
Also have a battery charger for my 2 RV deep discharge batteries that I am hooking the charger to my car battery after a couple days of not starting the car.
Thinking about buying a stronger battery but the car battery I have is just 1 year old which is young in battery life.

Quote: terapined

A question about car battery
Should a car battery drain after a few days of not using?

Not even a little. I can leave my car undriven for 2.5 weeks, and it still starts right up.

Chances are either the electrolyte levels are low (you can check if it-s not a "maintenance-free" battery), or the battery is defective. Lead acid car batteries last for years and years.

Quote: terapined

A question about car battery
Should a car battery drain after a few days of not using?
My car battery in only a year old
I only drive my car about twice a week because I work at home
Seems like my battery is losing its charge over several days of not using my car
I will turn my ignition and just a click, turn again and click again, turn again and it starts
If I drive some where , turn car off, come back and it starts right away. No clicks, no hesitation, start right up
So I have to figure my alternator is fine charging up the battery since the car starts fine after a drive/stop/turn off/turn back on
I took a look at the water level in my battery. Seemed a bit low so bought distilled water and filled to the bottom of the 6 cylinder holes.
Also have a battery charger for my 2 RV deep discharge batteries that I am hooking the charger to my car battery after a couple days of not starting the car.
Thinking about buying a stronger battery but the car battery I have is just 1 year old which is young in battery life.

I think you have to drive about 8 miles to bring the battery up to full charge +/-?

Think of your car battery as a giant cell phone battery, that develop's a memory and secretly hates you for making it work. Do you have access to a digital volt meter? The battery should be putting out 14+ volts, Corvette's I'm told are around 17. If yours is at 12.5 that is a mile, in a world that speaks in milivolts/amps.

A few days ago, I stepped into my camper and heard the automatic charger humming loudly. So, I checked the voltage and it showed 12v. I have two battery's in it, they are connected in parallel. So, although it would have helped to have a seven inch tall monkey to check the electrolite level, I was able to do so with a mirror. My battery's are 1 year old, yep they were down. The monkey could have helped adding water also, but he was off in a tree somewhere. I put water in, half way up the slots you spoke of. I checked yesterday, the charger is coasting quietly hoping to put the juice to something, and my batteries are up to 14v, all is well. Just need to go camping somewhere.

Chances are you have bad connections, even if it doesn't look like it. Can you wiggle them if you try briskly? They need to be cleaned inside with a wire brush until they shine. If you don't have specialty oxide inhibitor to coat the connection, I use vaseline for all my low voltage connections.

I leave a pick-up [Ford 150] in Alaska, parked all winter and my friend goes out and starts it in the spring, just to check it out. It starts after sitting all winter where it hits 25 or more below zero. Tiny computer in it as it is a '95, newer larger computers or clocks or the led light on security systems will drain a battery.

Could be your starter needs to be replaced, or your alternator is not up to snuff. Your battery should still be under warranty. Take it back to the place you got it and have them stress test it. They should be able to tell in a few minutes if it is holding a charge or defective.

There are manufacturer defects out there, I suspect many batteries are actually reconditioned cores in new plastic boxes, rather than brand spanking 100% new through and through.

Dead batteries are a fact of life, it's why
I have two chargers. One of them will
start a car with a dead battery. Which
is fine in an emergency, but you still
need to charge it, your alternator
won't no matter how far you drive it.